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Pushing to do so through medical methods is a response to the failures of other methods that have been tried. Conventional recycling using polishing and grinding causes fibers to form broken. The next garment should be mixed with 70 to 80 percent of junk so that whatever is made of it does not break and tear.
The most common way is to convert discarded plastic bottles into new polyester. Patagonia he introduced this method In the early 90s, and by the beginning of this decade almost all recycled polyester was from old bottles. Today, however, companies are facing more cases and supervisory review for those who would rather see bottles turned into bottles.
Drug recycling should be the next best thing. The term refers to the use of solvents to dissolve fibers into their chemical constituents—textiles that can be spun into new fabrics. On the face of it, this is a “circular” solution, because it does not rely on bottles, and critics say that they can turn your used polyester shirt or running shorts into new ones again and again, without losing the quality of the fabric.
That’s the vision now promoted by racing brands like The difference, H&Mand Levi ofmany of which have signed multi-year contracts with a limited number of drug recycling initiatives. Last fall, Nike teamed up to get “round” polyester from two of them: a Swedish company Acids and Loop companies in the US.
Research shows some interesting results. Technically, chemical recycling can produce virgin polyester, and one process, called methanolysis, can preserve this quality through repeated use. But there is major obstacles.
Diana Ferreira, a textile researcher at the University of Minho in Portugal, said that textile and textile recycling is still limited due to the availability of the right fabric for the job. “If we’re dealing with dirty, well-sorted, polyester-rich streams, chemical recycling can produce products with properties similar to virgin polyester,” he said. “However, if we are talking about postconsumer textile waste, the situation is much more complicated.”
In other words, chemical recycling works best with industrial waste, which is more similar than piles of used clothes. The latter can include blends of cotton, nylon, wool, spandex, and acrylics, not to mention dyes, coatings, fibers, prints, and zippers. All this makes medical rehabilitation impossible – at least, without it careful sorting and repeat it again and again to remove all the impurities.
“If we wanted it to work, we would have our clothes … be 100 percent polyester, and we would have to get rid of toxic chemicals,” Singla said.
Beth Jensen, of the Nonprofit Textile Exchange, is a great winner. He said “all solutions,” including chemical recycling, are necessary for the fashion industry to reduce its reliance on fossil fuels. But he admitted that laying the groundwork needed for companies to accept used clothing and use technologies like methanolysis to make new clothes is still a long way off. Also, it is not known who will build it. Companies like Nike? Governments? Reformers? Some combination of these organizations work together?