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MMy wife and I moved from London to Marseille over five years ago when our British passports still gave us “right of residence” in France. In that first winter on the beach, with short sleeves, while our daughters played in the topaz-colored Mediterranean and the sun broke through the opaque blue sky, I understood why this part of the south of France has become popular with photographers.
I was recently talking about this with an artist Fanny Nushka and her sailor husband, Benoît Bouchet, at the height of Café la Muse in Marseille The “coolest” place.. He said: “It took me a long time to get back to the blues.”
We moved to Marseille for the same reason that has attracted so many artists: it’s cheap to live here. The affordability of Marseille allows Fanny to paint regularly and Benoît to go without being away from his family for several weeks. Benoît runs daily cruises on a chartered boat, The Gift of the Wind. For €135, you get a taste of the Mediterranean with swimming, sailing and sunbathing in the unspoilt waters of the Marseille sea, a short break to taste wine and a lunch prepared on the boat.
Céline Ghisleri, another president Provence Contemporary Artwhich represents 62 art organizations in and around Marseille, tells me that the city has always had a strong artistic presence. However, a change came when Marseille was named the European Capital of Culture in 2013. Since then, major institutions such as Frac Sud, Mac and the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations (Say) have added to the city’s offerings with major exhibitions from well-known artists.
This summer, the Mucem exhibitions are Bonnes Mères, a series of contemporary and historical documents on the theme of motherhood, and the interesting Clément Cogitore Ferdinandea, l’île éphémère, a group of works that touched on the temporary existence of a Mediterranean island. At the end of August, art Art-O-Rama welcome at La Friche La Belle de Mai. La Friche (the Wasteland) used to be a tobacco factory and now it’s a huge war of different entertainment venues that are always heard, especially in the summer when they put a movie theater and food trucks on the roof. La Friche is the epitome of art in Marseille: absolute chaos, but somehow it works.
Outside of Marseille, Because Southa group of modern art organizations between Monaco and Montpellier, creates a guide with tours. That’s how I found beauty Gallift art near Aix-en-Provence, which is 40 minutes from Marseille but exists in a very different environment.
You can’t be further from the energy of Marseille than the daily market of Aix in Place Richelme, where you can grab a coffee and, if you’re lucky, a seat outside at the patisserie and tea room Maison Weibel. Lunch, I recommend Funny place (The Funny Place). It’s a bit of a road trip, but the food is delicious and the place is good. Another strong choice is Tita for Levantine street food.
Although small and quiet like Aix, it has many museums, such as Granet Museumand Caumont Art Center and Vasarely Foundationbut they tend to rely more on the art that historians have already inspired. For example, it wasn’t until 1984 that Granet found any work by a local boy, Cézanne, himself. a reserved studio and the top of the mountain.
That’s why it was so refreshing to find Gallifet trying something different. The owners, Nicolas Mazet and Kate Davis, aim to bring contemporary art to conservative Aix. On the floor of an 18th-century townhouse, a red circle frame of a mid-stroke swimmer, Diedji Diopshows that Gallifet is more than just a house (the owner lives above the artist’s gallery).
This summer exhibition features the photographer’s past Francois Hallardand more than 100 works spanning more than thirty years. Until the end of September, Gallifet also hosts a seasonal restaurant and chef’s lounge. This year, two Parisian chefs, Lisa Desforges and Bruno Hammerle, will use the ingredients and flavors of Provence to create menus such as smoked ricotta gnocchi with peas and peapod veloute. Gallifet also offers two rooms (from €200 and €160 per night), both decorated with pieces from past shows and full of Provençal features such as fireplaces and marble floors. tile terracotta wood.
A little further up the Rhône, Avignon builds a river, surrounded by ancient defensive walls. The Palais des Papes overlooks the famous vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape to the north and lavender fields to the south. Every July, the town is taken over by a Festival of Avignonone of the oldest sports festivals.
After the tour, walk down the most beautiful and beautiful street in Avignon, La Rue Peyrolerie. A winding ancient road leads to a beautiful restaurant, Grocerieswhich is located in a large square near a small gothic church of the 14th century with a carved walnut door. The food is French, served generously by friendly staff. Every time we visit Avignon, we eat here and have never been disappointed, but be warned that the terrace fills up quickly. This is a well known and loved place among the community. Another safe bet for outdoor dining is Number 75.
The most famous address for modern art in Avignon is Lambert Collectionhoused in two impressive 18th-century buildings, the Hotel de Caumont and the Hotel de Montfaucon. The collection is the legacy of Yvon Lambert, a renowned artist and collector who made a name for himself in the late 2000s alongside American artists such as Nan Goldin, Donald Judd, Lawrence Weiner and Cy Twombly. The collection continues to support up and coming artists in their Antechamber of Summer shows. This year’s show is America Sadeghzadehan Iranian artist who lives and works in Montpellier.
South of Avignon, Arles is home to a nearly 2,000-year-old Roman amphitheater, which hosts theater and music. The Vincent van Gogh Foundation and Bite hosting several shows throughout the year, but the real performance comes in July time Meetings of Arles. For 50 years, spaces throughout the city, from museums to food stalls, have displayed a wide range of contemporary and historical images.
Recently, we went to Arles for that reason Painting Festival. After wandering the beautiful old streets of the Roquette district on the east side of town, stopping in and out as we went, we found a small restaurant. Bye in the famous Paul Doumer. The menu promised shared plates featuring local produce and wine. So we sat down to have another meal at another table, under another clear blue sky.
