Following the broken Syrian roads from Baniyas to Aleppo | The Syrian war

Leaving Baniya

By noon, the ships are packed, and the ship is ready to depart. After weighing the wagons one by one, the goods are handed over to the staff of train number 708. Only available seats are available on the train.

Crammed inside, the three workers share less than a square meter of space. The constant sound of railroad tracks and the hum of engines accompany their conversation.

Like all locomotives still in operation, the 708 was built in the Soviet Union and dates back to the 1970s. Everything, from the dashboard to the painted windows, comes from another era, and the mostly metal interior is not comforting.

A small round stove allows staff to keep cups of tea and traditional couples coming, helping them stay alert. The atmosphere is calm, and a small speaker plays classic songs by Lebanese singer Fairuz.

At the controls is the driver Abu Mahmoud. He will lead the first part of the journey. He and the train manager, Hussein, are both over 50 years old and have spent their entire lives working for SRC. Abu Mahmoud’s assistant, Mohammed, is relatively new. At 37, he stands tall, wearing a turtleneck sweater and polished shoes. He comes from a small village between Homs and Tartous and spent eight years in the army until 2018.

He explains why he joined the army.

“At that time, the government told the young people on the beach: ‘There is nothing you can do, there is only the sea behind you.

“That’s why I signed up, and to get paid,” he adds.

After his military service, he joined the SRC.

“I wouldn’t be opposed to staying longer, but after eight years, you usually get fired,” he explains.
All three men are from the coastal region, which is predominantly Alawite. They admit that they were afraid of the new government, especially after the March 2025 massacre of Alawites. The new leader of Syria, Ahmed al-Sharaa, is a Sunni.

But Mohammed says, “Our mission remains the same, and we continue to accomplish it regardless.”

“People have to get used to the change; it will take time for them to trust politicians again,” he adds.

Hussein and Abu Mahmoud nod, and through the window, a large statue of Hafez al-Assad beside him appears.

Despite his fears, he also sees the train as a way to overcome social divisions.

“I’m Alawite, I can choose to stay at home and do nothing all day because I’m scared, but if I miss the train, don’t pretend to be helpful and enjoy the place,” says Hussein.